Catemaco, Veracruz

Never say never. During my last trip through Veracruz last year, I had to bypass Catemaco. I thought then that I would never get back there.  Never came early, because we just left Catemaco.

Catemaco is not the sort of destination that your average jet-setter would visit. I think that is a good thing. There are many Mexicos and many types of tourists. God bless the jet-setters – they are the bulk of tourists to Mexico and as such, contribute to the economy more than people like you and me. And, even I have jetted to destinations when I was on press trips. It is not really how you get to Mexico that matters, it is what you do with your time and where you go once you are here.

We stayed at the Hotel Los Arcos www.arcoshotel.com.mx . This is one of those reasonably-priced middle-class Mexico hotels that I find to be such a bargain. Some say Mexico has gotten too expensive. I suppose that is a matter of debate. The Los Arcos (and most of the hotels I’ve stayed at for the last two years) costs $500 MXN single or double.

The hotel is built in a U around a pool and parking lot. Parking could not be more secure. The rooms are reasonably-sized and the ones on the side of the hotel away from the street, towards the back, are exceptionally quiet. You know me – Mikey has to have a quiet room. That may be one of the personality quirks that keeps me from assimilating into the Mexican culture. In general, Mexican people are way more tolerant of noise than I am. The point for other travelers is that pretty much no matter what your quirk is, the people in Mexico will try to accommodate you.

Catemaco is about a thousand feet above sea level on the Gulf Coast. Because of this slight elevation, it has a warm, but not oppressively hot climate. I certainly love Veracruz city and the seafood, but even I have to admit that when you get away from the beaches with the breeze, it is warm in summer. Catemaco is above all that, so to speak.

Catemaco is built on the shore of a volcanic lake. There are picturesque views from just about anywhere on the Malecon. However, I remembered a particular photograph I took twenty or so years ago and wanted to return to the spot. Bill remembered the same spot as he had taken pictures there too. So we drove off down the road south of town to see if our memories were still intact. After all, the long-term memory is the last to go, so we figured we were pretty likely to find it.

Find it we did.

Why go to Catemaco? The main tourist reasons are the lake, the holistic lodge and eco-tourism park Nanciyaga, the reputation it has as a location for brujas (witches) and curanderos (healers) and just a picturesque Mexican town. For the adventurous restaurants serve a local snail from the lake.

 My own humble opinion (based on personal experience and those of friends of mine who are healers themselves) is that Santiago Tuxtla up the road 16 miles north has more authentic healers. On the way there, you pass through Santiago Tuxtla where almost all of the cigars are made in Mexico. Bill stocked up but I quit a couple of years ago or I would have. I rank good Mexican cigars with any from anywhere else. But, like all travel-related things, as in the beginning of this post, taste is relative.

Another attraction is the jungle and the reforestation that is going on there. Nanciyaga can proudly boast that they have restored much of the native habitat, which speaks highly of them and the clientele that visits the. While we were there, I availed myself of the services of Ben Suykens, a European-trained, Mexican-licensed chiropractor. He has restored much of the land he owns and even the coyotes are coming back, to complete the cycle of life. Hand around Catemaco long enough and you will begin to talk like that.

My next post will be on Eyipantla Falls, an attraction I have missed seeing in all my years in Mexico. The lesson is that Mexico always has something new to offer – even to an old goat like me.

See you down the road in Mexico.